CELEBRATING J.L. RUNEBERG - THE SUPERSTAR OF HIS ERA

CELEBRATING J.L. RUNEBERG -

THE SUPERSTAR OF HIS ERA

Each year on February the 5th Finland celebrates Johan Ludvig Runeberg (1804-1877), the national poet of Finland, by raising flags and eating ”Runebergin torttu” (Runeberg's Tart). This cylindrical pastry is flavored with almonds and arrack punch or rum and decorated with raspberry jam in a white sugar ring.

Picture above:

J.L Runeberg in 1863. Picture by Alfred Ottelin. Historical Picture Collection, Finnish Heritage Agency.

Legend tells us that Runeberg’s wife, novelist and journalist Fredrika Runeberg (née Tengström) invented Runebergin torttu from scratch. Since then Johan Ludvig himself started each day with this delicious pastry accompanied with a glass of spirit or arrack liqueur.

And yes, the recipe surely can be found in Fredrika's little recipe book, but most likely the original recipe was invented by a local confectioner Lars Astenius and had apple jam instead of raspberry jam on top.

J.L. Runeberg was a teacher, lyric, poet and a priest. He is best known for his epic poem the Tales of Ensign Stål, which describes the events of the Finnish War in 1808-1809. The first chapter of the poem became the national anthem of Finland, and it is told that German-Finnish composer Fredrik Pacius wrote the music to the anthem in four days. The song was first performed in 1848 by students celebrating the Flora Day. This was of great importance in terms of national awakening, and eventually led to Finland’s independence in 1917. Our image of Finland as fatherland was largely created by Runeberg and he also inspired other contemporaries with his poems. Finland as a country of thousands of lakes was his creation.

Runeberg was born in a Swedish-speaking family in Jakobstad (Pietarsaari in Finnish). He studied in the cities of Vaasa, Oulu, and Turku. Runeberg met Fredrika, his second cousin, during his time as a private tutor in the Tengström family. They got engaged in 1828 and married in 1831. They lived in Helsinki from 1828 to 1837, gathering together with like-minded friends on Saturday evenings to discuss issues of national identity.

Fredrika Runeberg in 1875. Picture by Fredrik Runeberg. Historical Picture Collection, Finnish Heritage Agency.

Fredrika was a pioneer of Finnish historical fiction, and was considered to be one of Finland’s first female journalists. She was the first Finnish writer to criticize women’s position at home and in the society and established a school for disadvantaged girls. She also translated foreign literature and articles from English, German and French.

In 1837 Johan Ludvig was appointed as a teacher of Roman Literature at Porvoo Gymnasium (upper secondary school), and they moved from Helsinki to Porvoo. The position also included membership of the Cathedral Chapter of the Diocese of Porvoo, (encompassing entire Eastern Finland), and Runeberg was ordained to priesthood in 1838. Runeberg also founded a local newspaper Borgå Tidning together with his companions.

The Runebergs’ first residence in Porvoo was a small house on Kirkkokatu, but soon they rented a flat on Lukiokuja 4. It was bigger but in poor condition. Runeberg started coughing up blood. In 1838 they bought a house on Rihkamakatu 8, only to find out that this house was also in a bad shape. They moved again, this time to Jokikatu 8, and tried to sell the Rihkamakatu house with no luck. They ended up renovating the house and moved back next year. Upstairs was Runeberg’s study and library, and a room for entertaining the guests, many of them being female. During the years their family size increased and in 1852 they ended up moving again to a new house in which they lived for a quarter of a century, until Johan Ludvig passed at the age of 73. This house at Aleksanterinkatu 3 is now serving as J.L. Runebergs Home Museum.

The oldest wallpapers in the Runebergs' home are from 1852. Also many of the houseplants are cuttings from Fredrika's own plants. She was a real green thumb, and during summer you can also visit her garden in the courtyard.

Interesting detail at the Runebergs Home Museum, a contemporary kitchen hood from the 19th century.

In addition to his own wife Runeberg enjoyed the company of other women and he had romantic affairs throughout his life. The most well-known of his affairs was with a young woman called Emilie Björksten, 20 years junior to Runeberg. Johan Ludvig served as an inspiration to the young woman, and vice versa one might guess. Later on also Emily published her own poetry collections, the first one at the age of 40.

It wasn’t easy for Johan and Emilie to try to hide their emotional affair, which was a bit of a scandal when it became known. Eventually, and quite surprisingly, Fredrika Runeberg accepted their romance and became a mentor to Emilie. Keep your friends close and enemies closer...

Emilie Björkstén in 1895. Historical Picture Collection, Finnish Heritage Agency.

The affair of Emilie and Johan lasted on and off for 20 years. Emily suffered in this inappropriate relationship, and Runeberg promised to Emilie that he would talk their way to heaven. Finally Emilie struggled to leave Runeberg. Soon after the breakup, maybe even because of it, Runeberg became partly paralyzed and lost his ability to speak. Fredrika asked Emilie to come and help her take care of her husband, which she did. An edited version of Emilie's letters with Johan Ludvig caused a bit of a stir when they were first published in 1940, but her original diary had been burned at Emilie's request. 

Johan Ludvig's wheelchair, designed by his son Robert Runeberg.

J.L. Runeberg and his family at Kroksnäs summer villa 1863. Picture Daniel Nyblin /Alfred Ottelin. Historical Picture Collection, Finnish Heritage Agency.

Fredrika and Johan Ludvig had eight children, two of whom died in early childhood. Emily never married, and she is buried close to the Runebergs' grave at Näsinmäki graveyard in Porvoo.

Johan Ludvig standing by the window in 1875. Picture by Fredrik Runeberg, Historical Picture Collection, Finnish Heritage Agency.

You can find Runeberg cakes in shops and cafés only in the beginning of the year, a few weeks ahead starting from the end of January, but there is one exception. You can get them in Porvoo Old Town cafés all through the year! 

But for those of you who cannot get your hands on this tasty treat, here is my version of the recipe. It is gluten and dairy free with the exception of the gingerbread cookies, which were not dairy free. The batter already is so delicious that it's hard not to eat it all. Please note, that in Finland it is safe to eat raw eggs, not recommended in every country.

RUNEBERGIN TORTUT

Gluten free

Ingredients for about 12 pcs (depending on the mold size)

1 dl = 0,4 cups

100 g = 4 ounces

• 200 g dairy free butter (room temp)
• 2 dl brown sugar
• 3 eggs
• 3 dl gluten free flour
• 1 dl gluten free gingerbread cookies 
• 1 dl gluten free bread crumbs
• 1 dl almond flour
• 2 tsp baking powder
• 1 tsp cardamom
• 1 dl dairy free whipping cream
• 1 tsp salt

For moistening

• 12 tbs arrack punch or rum (18cl)
• 4 tbs water 

For decoration 

• raspberry jam
• icing (from powdered sugar & water)

1. Whisk the butter and and sugar until fluffy 
2. Add the eggs one by one beating vigorously
3. Combine the dry ingredients together
4. Add first the whipping cream and then the dry ingredients to the batter
5. Coat the molds with butter and breadcrumbs
6. Cover a baking tray with baking paper 
7. Fill the molds with batter, 2/3 full
8. Bake in 200°C (390°F) for about 20 minutes
9. Let the cakes cool down
10. Moisten the cakes with a liquid made from arrack or rum and water, you might need to double the dose if you prefer it really moist like I do
11. Add a spoonful of raspberry jam on top of each cake
12. Decorate with a ring of icing around the jam

For less alcohol you can swap the alcohol and water amounts around, or replace it with orange juice. For a hard core version you can just leave the water out and moist it with rum or arrack punch. But no driving after those cakes then :-)

You can get baking molds for Runebergin torttu from the Runebergs Home Museum.

They also have Runebergin torttu mugs at the museum. Or...is it sushi :-)? I love both!

There is a lot of debate each year about what kind of Runebergin torttu is the best, about the secret to the optimal texture and moisture and what liquid to moisten it with. In Porvoo there is a yearly Runebergin Torttu Contest. I might participate next year, so don't share my recipe with anyone ;-)

You can find Tailor's House Tales also on Instagram ♥